Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Any plasterers about?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Any plasterers about?

    Does anyone know what the minimum thickness Dot & dab plasterboard can be applied.

    I've been knocking tiles off the bathroom wall and the old plaster was loose so I've knocked half the wall down to the brickwork, the plaster on the other half is rock solid but only about 20MM thick. Will I be able to dot & dab the bare half to match up with the 20MM thick plaster? The door is tight up to this wall otherwise I would just knock it all off.

    Would I be able to apply the bonding to the wall with say a tile adhesive trowel?

    I'm assuming I need to PVA the bare bricks? 5 to 1 mix?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    Cheers, Keith.

  • #2
    Originally posted by KeithB View Post
    Does anyone know what the minimum thickness Dot & dab plasterboard can be applied.

    I've been knocking tiles off the bathroom wall and the old plaster was loose so I've knocked half the wall down to the brickwork, the plaster on the other half is rock solid but only about 20MM thick. Will I be able to dot & dab the bare half to match up with the 20MM thick plaster? The door is tight up to this wall otherwise I would just knock it all off.

    Would I be able to apply the bonding to the wall with say a tile adhesive trowel?

    I'm assuming I need to PVA the bare bricks? 5 to 1 mix?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    I would say no problem there mate, done the same thing myself and never had any problems. Just use as much stuff on the wall that is required to get yer levelness. Don't know about the PVA mix ratio like.

    Comment


    • #3
      no problem with doing the wall mate just use the 4x4 handy boards mate pva the wall then stick the dabs of board adhesive on the wall them push against the wall but not fully home then use a straight edge and tap the boards flat along the length of the wall across the already plastered part and the board so as the wall runs straight from the plastered part and along the board length if that makes sense

      Comment


      • #4
        Got ya!! Cheers lads.
        Cheers, Keith.

        Comment


        • #5
          Just do it man, if you can build a formula 1 engine, you can do anything

          Comment


          • #6
            I was fully expecting you to suggest I use that stuff, what's it called again?

            Been working hard today, removed about 8 rubble sacks of tiles and loose plaster, plus the bag full I've inhaled.
            Cheers, Keith.

            Comment


            • #7
              Iv'e made some "home made" shads, guess what with

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by guy View Post
                no problem with doing the wall mate just use the 4x4 handy boards mate pva the wall then stick the dabs of board adhesive on the wall them push against the wall but not fully home then use a straight edge and tap the boards flat along the length of the wall across the already plastered part and the board so as the wall runs straight from the plastered part and along the board length if that makes sense
                Yeh, they've got to be parrallel but a couple of mm back so you can apply the final skim of wall finish to the new boards so it finishes flush with the existing plastered wall.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Topfly View Post
                  Just do it man, if you can build a formula 1 engine, you can do anything
                  Formula 1 Jim? does that mean your gonna beat us to No 9 ...


                  norm
                  ]` ` ` ` ` ` ` ` )
                  . . ,,,,,,___[ ~ \___
                  ,,;;`` [_________/-,......... Norman......... http://slinkykate.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Only if we leave the quay at 2. 00 am Norman.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by g.ordon View Post
                      Yeh, they've got to be parrallel but a couple of mm back so you can apply the final skim of wall finish to the new boards so it finishes flush with the existing plastered wall.
                      was assuming hes just tiling over it again so that was the easiest way of getting a flat surface so he wouldnt get any lips on his tiles

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by guy View Post
                        was assuming hes just tiling over it again so that was the easiest way of getting a flat surface so he wouldnt get any lips on his tiles
                        Agree, if it's being tiled all over.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The whole wall will be skimmed, but I'll let a pro do that.

                          Thanks lads.
                          Cheers, Keith.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X