where can i get some brake blocks for slosh? the ones i had i lost and the replacement one my mate gave me has actualy melted away inside the reel. i tried reelsport in shields but they didnt have none at the time!
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Ducky
I was after the clamp for the slosh 30,tried all the local tackle dealers with no luck.I went on the daiwa website and sent them an email telling them what i needed.3 days later they were there,they will send you them through the post and then send you a invoice to pay for them.The only fish i want this year is a double figured cod!!!
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Originally posted by DUCKY View Postwhere can i get some brake blocks for slosh? the ones i had i lost and the replacement one my mate gave me has actualy melted away inside the reel. i tried reelsport in shields but they didnt have none at the time!
numbr is 0191/2763041 hes helped me a few times in the past he has a lot of second hand parts that other shops do not have
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Just make some- get a biro pen and cut the end of the ink tube, the longer they are the more braking power you will have. Alternatively the middle of a cotton bud works just the same. if you dont want to do this ive probably got some proper brake blocks lying around somewhere, il check when i get in from work.
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think theres one up scotland
Daiwa Sports Ltd.
Netherton Industrial Estate
Wishaw ML2 0ey
Scotland, U.K
Phone Wishaw:
01698 355723
Fax: 01698 372505
Website:
Email: info@daiwasports.co.ukLast edited by codseeker; 04-02-2010, 03:34 PM.Panel Pin Champ
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The 'sloshes' are the easiest multipliers to maintain. I pop the bearings twice a season and soak them in petrol to remove any dirt or oily residue followed by a wash in warm soapy water , rinse then dry with a hair-drier and then re-oil.
To get the bearings out, you may need to make a 'puller'. This is simply a piece of strong wire with a small 3mm hook at the bottom and a bent handle of some sort at the top.
To access the bearing on the handle side, get some tweezers or fine pliers and remove the fine hexagonal spring clip. Hoy a duster or hanky over the reel when you are doing this 'cos the little bu---er hez a habit of flying away in aall directions. Then simply pull the bearing out
On the 'clicker' end, carefully unscrew the two wee screws holding the brass plate that retains the 'clicker mechanism and bearing and pull the bearng out using the piece of bent wire.
As previously mentioned if you place all the components out in the order in which you took them off, it's foolproof.
Thicker oil will slow things up better than any brake-blocks.
Cheors,
Drof
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i used to think the thick oil ie gearbox oil and brake blocks were the answer but now i would just put any oil in 3 in 1 and the blocks will do the braking thats what works for me.
the brake blocks are the breaking system the initial surge centrifugal force.did you know panel pins comes in diff sizes ?
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