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  • #16
    Originally posted by john/r View Post
    i used to think the thick oil ie gearbox oil and brake blocks were the answer but now i would just put any oil in 3 in 1 and the blocks will do the braking thats what works for me.

    the brake blocks are the breaking system the initial surge centrifugal force.
    Personally, I don't use brake-blocks on any of my multipliers and I find 'Three In One' too thick and gummy. I use a much finer oil and achieve good distances with very few over-runs, but then again, I've used multipliers for decades.

    For those who are relatively new to the game, it is worth experimenting with 'blocks' and oils of various viscocity until you come up with the ideal combination for you.

    I certainly wouldn't recommend my paticular oil mix unless you have had a great deal of multilplier experience.

    Cheeors,

    Drof

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    • #17
      think ill stick with the blocks, iv only been using 1... just orderd some diffrent sizes from daiwa so ill see how i get on. cheers for all the replys

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      • #18
        hi, done a little bit casting in my time also but still dont claim to be any expert far from it.

        i have cast in the past a shimano speedmaster with two blocks 226 yds good for me actualy same day cast 246 with mag3 reel.

        also cast a slosh30 225yds with a magged one i done myself.

        when i say use blocks as breaks alone use any oil you like thin or whatever this is mho.

        what i prefer in break blocks is the fibre type you get from the older abus i swear by these but become harder to obtain definately better breaking qualities than plastic there again imho.

        they do come in various sizes but getting hold of them is another thing you may find on ebay or possibly pete coogan.
        did you know panel pins comes in diff sizes ?

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        • #19
          As said above the fibre type are the best but I have also used small oval aero beads flattened at the end with a small file too equal effect.

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          • #20
            Just thought id share a bit of info .Been having a lot of birdies lately,so i decided to check brake blocks ,when i removed the sideplate of my slosh there where no brakes in sight only a fine red dust where they had disintegrated .What id used was the straw that comes with WD40 cut into two equal lengths , so lesson learnt and ill be sending to daiwa for some of there own genuine ones(obviousley made from a more durable plastic).

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            • #21
              Originally posted by border reiver View Post
              As said above the fibre type are the best but I have also used small oval aero beads flattened at the end with a small file too equal effect.
              i've tried areo beads in the past and they turned to dust, i agree that the fibre type are best though

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