help needed

[darren]

hi fellas i need a bit help if anyone has the time iv just bought a boat it came with 2 engines but im having trouble with my main one its an evenrude 9.5 im having problems starting it and when it is runing for 5mins then it cuts out.iv been told that water is supposed to sqiurt out some where but it doesnt look like it does.is it supposed to come out where the exsust gasses come out?? i realy havnt a clue iv been a shore angler mainly and never owned a boat b4 i may consider buying a another one if any one has a reliable on lying around no more than 30 hp any help or advice would be great

[mark]

the 'tell tale' - bit where the water should come out, is under the bottom plate of the main engine powerhead - underneath the bit the hood fits on

If there's no water coming out, don't run the engine! There's an impellor in the bottom of the leg where the gearbox/prop is that pumps water up the leg and around the engine. if the water pump isn't working, you'll seize the engine

it is possible that the exit of the tell tale may be blocked, bits of salt/crud etc, with the hood off you should find a small rubber hose that goes from the engine block to the bottom cover plate, that the tell tell hose, pull it off check its not blocked

if you're running the motor in a tub of water, makes sure the water level is well above the top plate on the gearbox, so the inlet for the water pump is fully submerged

if you've done all the above and you turnit over and there's still no water coming out, stop the engine immediately and don't run it again

you either need a new impellor in the pump, or depending on the model, there may be a thermostat on the head that is blocked

either way, don't run the engine till you've checked both out, or you'll seize the thing permanently at worst, or at best score the barrels/pistons so badly it'll be pretty useless anyway

impellors are cheap enough, 10 or 15 quid for something that size, and fitting is not a big job to do yourself, a dealer service will probably be 50 or 60 quid for something that size, which will include and impellor change

[darren]

cheers mate very helpfull ill have a good look 2mrw but if anyone would like to give me a little bit of there time to show me that would be great i live in killingworth

[mark]

I've got a pdf copy of "The Outboard repair Manual" which should help.

I'll FTP it up somewhere and post a link in a bit

[darren]

thanks mate

[mark]

http://ebgb.net/misc/outboard-engines-book.zip

280meg to dl. let me know whn you've got it so Ic an take it down again

[darren]

got it thanks alot mark

[Charlie_Thompson]

I've got a pdf copy

you little *******

[davem2005]

HI Darren,
Mark is right about the tell tale, you need that cooling water.

The difficult to start bit may be caused by blocked jets in the carb. Over winter the petrol evaporates leaving a deposit on the inside of the jet making the engine run lean and therefore too hot.

It could also be blocked float valve inlets in the carb which would account for the shutting down after a few minutes unless the engine is a modern one with computerised ignition and safety features. A build up ( even slight) of water in the carb bowl also has this effect.

Try blocking off the air inlet with the air filter off and turning over the engine. This pulls neat fuel down the jets and may flush them out. You could also try removing the carbs and soaking them in soda water which is an excellent cleaner but wont affect the rubber parts, or a proprietry carb cleaner.

I've a Clymer Evinrude/Johnson 2-40 HP workshop manual covering engines from 1973-1990 if its any good to you you would be welcome to borrow it.

Cheers
dave

[darren]

cherrs for that dave going to give all the above a go on the weekend coz if wether is ok im hoping to get out

[mark]

before you pull the carbs off.....

at the bottom of each carb bowl is a brass drain nut.

if you crack that open, the fuel in the carb bowl will drain out, try catch it if you can and see what sort of crud comes out with it. while the drain nut is cracked or removed altogether, pump the fuel primer bulb a few times, this will force fresh fuel into the carb and then straight out the drain, thus flushing the carb, if it has more than 1 carb, take the drain nuts of all of them, and pump plenty fuel through, that should give the carbs a good flush without needing any major work

the other thing I'd recomend is, if the fuel you have has been around a bit (ie since last year) get fresh petrol, it can make a world of difference

elsewhere to check... trace the fuel line from the connector on the motor to the fuel pump, this will be a flatish squarish disk looking thing, probably 4 screws one at each corner, undo the screws and carefully ease the plate off. there's a rubber diaphragm inside, check it for splits or any crap that might be in there as well.

Also check to see if there's a fuel filter in there somewhere, when your squeezing the primer bulb, if you're seeing a lot of air bubbles you may well have a problem in the fuel line somewhere, perished rubber or the connector is not seating properly so it is sucking excess air in - thats can stop the fuel pump from pressurising properly